How to Sew DIY Lined & Unlined Tote Bags

         A sturdy handmade tote bag with pockets, perfect for shopping, travel, and everyday use.

Durable, Practical Bags for Shopping, Travel & Everyday Use

Tote bags are one of the most practical sewing projects you can make. A well-constructed tote can last for years, replace a purse, and handle everything from grocery runs to travel days. Whether you choose a quick unlined tote or a polished lined tote, the secret to longevity is fabric weight, reinforced seams, and smart pocket placement.

This tutorial walks you step-by-step through both lined and unlined tote bags, so you can choose the style that fits your needs.

Why Fabric Choice Matters

The heavier the fabric, the longer your tote will last—especially for shopping and daily use.

Best fabrics for tote bags:

Denim – extremely durable and structured

Canvas – classic tote fabric with strength and flexibility

Duck cloth – heavy-duty and long-wearing

Cotton – best for lighter totes or when fully lined

Heavier fabrics allow unlined totes to hold their shape, while lighter cotton benefits from a lining or interfacing.

Finished Tote Size (Example)

You can easily resize this pattern.

Finished size: approx. 14" wide × 15" tall × 4" deep

Seam allowance: ½"

Materials Needed

For Both Lined & Unlined Totes

Denim, canvas, duck cloth, or heavy cotton

Matching thread

Sewing machine

Scissors or rotary cutter

Pins or clips

Iron

Additional for Lined Tote

Lining fabric

Fusible interfacing (optional)

Optional Add-Ons

7-9" Zipper for interior pocket

Key loop or D-ring

What Size Zipper Should You Use for a Tote Bag Lining Pocket?

For most tote bags, a 7" to 9" zipper works best for an interior lining pocket.

Recommended Zipper Sizes

7" zipper – best for smaller or divided interior pockets

8" zipper – ideal all-purpose size for standard tote bags

9" zipper – great for larger totes or when storing a wallet

An 8" zipper is the most versatile choice and fits comfortably inside a 14"–15" wide tote.

Pocket Cutting Size (Interior Zipper Pocket Example)

To pair with an 8" zipper:

Pocket fabric: 8" × 10"

Zipper opening: slightly shorter than the zipper length

Finished pocket depth: approx. 6"–7"

This size comfortably holds:

Wallet

Phone

Keys

Small personal items

Zipper Tips for Tote Bags

Use nylon coil zippers for easier sewing

Zippers can be trimmed if slightly too long

Neutral zipper colors blend well with lining fabrics

Contrast zippers add a fun design detail

Quick Tip 

If you’re unsure which zipper to buy, choose an 8" zipper—it works for most tote sizes and layouts.

Cutting Instructions

Tote Body

Cut 2 rectangles: 15" × 16"

Handles

Cut 2 strips: 4" × 22"

Pockets (Optional)

Exterior pocket: 8" × 10"

Interior pocket: 8" × 10"

Lined Tote Only

Cut 2 lining pieces: 15" × 16"

How to Sew an Unlined Tote Bag

Unlined totes are quick, sturdy, and perfect for heavier fabrics.

Step 1: Sew the Pockets (Optional)

Fold the pocket piece in half, right sides together. Stitch around sides and bottom, leaving a small opening. Turn right side out, press, and topstitch the top edge. Pin the pocket to the tote front and stitch down the sides and bottom.

Step 2: Sew the Tote Body

Place tote pieces right sides together. Sew both side seams and the bottom seam. Press seams open.

Step 3: Box the Corners

Flatten one bottom corner so the side seam and bottom seam align. Measure 2" from the tip and draw a line. Stitch across the line. Repeat for the other corner. Trim excess fabric.

This creates depth so the tote stands upright.

Step 4: Make the Handles

Fold each handle strip in half lengthwise and press. Open it, fold raw edges to the center, press again, then fold in half. Topstitch along both long edges.

Step 5: Attach Handles

Turn the tote right side out. Measure about 3" in from each side seam and pin the handles in place. Stitch a box with an “X” inside for strength.

Step 6: Finish the Top Edge

Fold the top edge down ½", then another 1". Press and topstitch all the way around.

Your unlined tote bag is finished!

How to Sew a Lined Tote Bag

Lined totes provide structure, durability, and a clean interior finish.

Step 1: Prepare the Pockets

Attach interior pockets to the lining pieces and exterior pockets to the outer tote pieces before assembling the bag.

Step 2: Sew the Outer Tote

Place outer tote pieces right sides together. Sew side seams and bottom seam. Box the corners as described above.

Step 3: Sew the Lining

Place lining pieces right sides together. Sew side seams and bottom seam, leaving a 4" opening in the bottom seam for turning. Box the corners.

Step 4: Make and Attach Handles

Make handles the same way as the unlined tote. With the outer tote right side out, pin handles in place with raw edges aligned at the top.

Step 5: Join Lining and Outer Bag

Place the lining over the outer tote, right sides together. Align seams and handles. Stitch around the top edge.

Step 6: Turn and Finish

Pull the bag right side out through the lining opening. Stitch the lining opening closed. Push lining inside the bag, press the top edge, and topstitch around the opening.

Your lined tote bag is complete!

Pocket Placement Tips (Purse-Free Totes)

Exterior slip pocket for phone access

Interior zip pocket for wallet and keys

Divided interior pockets for organization

With the right pockets, a tote can safely replace a purse while shopping or traveling.

Color Ideas for Your Tote Bags

Bright, happy colors for everyday or gift totes

Neutral colors like denim, tan, gray, or black are timeless for use.

Contrast pockets or linings add personality without overpowering the bag

Tips for Long-Lasting Tote Bags

Use longer stitch lengths for heavy fabric

Reinforce handles with box-and-X stitching

Topstitch stress points

Choose durable thread

DIY lined and unlined tote bags are practical, durable, and endlessly customizable. With the right fabric, thoughtful pocket placement, and solid construction, a handmade tote can serve as a daily workhorse for shopping, travel, and everyday life.

Happy sewing! 🧵