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What Years of Sewing Welding Hats Taught Me About Cotton Weight, Durability, and Choosing Better Fabric
Dear Readers and Subscribers,
Walk into a fabric store and you may find dozens—or even hundreds—of bolts labeled 100% cotton. At first glance, it would be easy to assume that one solid cotton is much like another.
After years of sewing, I have learned that isn't necessarily true.
Two fabrics can both be labeled 100% cotton and still feel different, sew differently, wash differently, and perform very differently in a finished project. The weave, weight, density, finish, and overall construction of the fabric can make a noticeable difference.
I learned this firsthand while sewing welding hats for customers.
I used both Kona Cotton and Bella Solids and found them to be quality fabrics for my sewing. I especially liked Kona Cotton for welding hats because the fabric had the substance and durability I wanted in something that would receive considerable wear.
I also made welding hats from solid cottons produced by Marshall Dry Goods. Those solids were thinner than the Kona Cotton I had been using, and in my experience, the finished welding hats did not last as long.
That experience taught me an important lesson:
Choosing quality fabric isn't just about making a sewing project look better. The right fabric can affect how long the finished item lasts.
100% Cotton Doesn't Tell the Whole Story
When a fabric is labeled 100% cotton, that tells us what fiber the fabric contains. It doesn't tell us everything about the fabric itself.
Cotton fabrics can differ considerably in their:
Weight
Thread density
Weave
Thickness
Surface finish
Stability
Opacity
Drape
Shrinkage
Colorfastness
Resistance to repeated wear and washing
This is why two solid cotton fabrics sitting next to each other can feel completely different even though both labels say 100% cotton.
One may feel smooth, dense, and substantial. Another may feel noticeably thinner and lighter.
Neither characteristic automatically makes a fabric good or bad. The important question is whether the fabric is appropriate for what you intend to make.
What Is Kona Cotton?
Kona Cotton is Robert Kaufman's well-known collection of solid 100% cotton fabrics. It is particularly popular among quilters because of its large selection of colors, but quilting certainly isn't its only possible use.
One characteristic I appreciate about Kona Cotton is its substantial feel.
For projects that need some structure and durability, that can be a tremendous advantage. It can work well for projects such as quilts, aprons, bags, fabric baskets, crafts, home décor and certain garments.
In my own sewing, I found it especially useful for welding hats.
A welding hat isn't something that simply hangs beautifully in a closet. It is workwear. It can be worn for hours, exposed to perspiration and friction, folded or stuffed into a pocket or work bag, and washed over and over again.
The fabric needs to be able to take some punishment.
My Kona Cotton welding hats held up well, and that mattered to me because I wanted the products I sold to last.
What Are Bella Solids?
Bella Solids are Moda Fabrics' collection of solid cotton fabrics. Like Kona Cotton, Bella Solids are widely used by quilters and are available in an extensive range of colors.
I have sewn with Bella cotton as well and considered it a quality fabric.
A large coordinated color selection is particularly helpful to sewists because solids are often used alongside prints. Whether you are making a quilt, bag, garment, apron or another project, finding the right solid can completely change the appearance of the finished piece.
Bella Solids and Kona Cotton both demonstrate why it can be worthwhile to become familiar with particular fabric collections rather than buying solely according to color.
Once you have sewn with a fabric, washed it, pressed it and seen how the finished project performs, you begin developing your own list of fabrics you trust.
What About Less Expensive Cotton Solids?
This is where the discussion becomes more complicated.
A less expensive solid cotton isn't automatically a poor fabric.
For example, I have used solid cottons from other brands. The solids I used were thinner than Kona Cotton. For welding hats, I found that they did not provide the same longevity.
But that doesn't mean a thinner cotton couldn't be an excellent choice for another project.
Think about what you are asking the fabric to do.
A lightweight cotton might be perfectly suitable for a decorative craft, lining, doll clothing or another project that doesn't receive the hard use of workwear.
Put that same fabric into a welding hat that will be worn and washed constantly, and you are asking much more of it.
Fabric should be judged partly according to its intended purpose.
My Welding Hats Became a Fabric Test
Selling welding hats gave me an opportunity to see fabric quality from a perspective I might not have gotten from occasionally sewing something for myself.
I wasn't simply looking at fabric on a bolt.
I was turning that fabric into a product that someone would actually use.
My welding hats made with Kona Cotton performed particularly well. The more substantial cotton helped create a durable hat that could withstand repeated use better than some of the thinner solids I tried.
That was important for my business.
A customer may initially notice the color or print of a handmade product, but over time, what that customer remembers is how well the product performed.
Did the seams hold?
Did the fabric hold up?
Did it survive repeated washing?
Could the customer continue wearing it?
Those questions changed the way I looked at fabric.
Quality Sewing Begins Before You Start Sewing
Sewists often concentrate on construction techniques when trying to make something look professionally made.
And construction absolutely matters.
Straight seams matter. Good pressing matters. Proper interfacing matters. Beautiful topstitching matters. Finishing the inside of a garment matters.
But there is another part of quality sewing that happens before you thread the machine:
Choosing the right fabric.
You can sew beautiful seams into fabric that isn't suited to the project, but your workmanship cannot change the fundamental characteristics of that fabric.
If a project needs structure, choose a fabric capable of providing structure.
If it needs drape, choose fabric that drapes.
If it will receive frequent washing and hard wear, durability becomes especially important.
The pattern and fabric have to work together.
How Can You Judge a Cotton Solid Before Buying It?
You don't necessarily need to recognize a brand name to evaluate fabric.
When shopping in person, take a few moments to examine the cotton rather than choosing it based entirely on color.
Feel the fabric. Does it feel substantial enough for your project?
Look through it. Hold it toward the light. A surprisingly open or thin weave may become much more apparent.
Examine the weave. Does it appear even and consistent?
Scrunch it in your hand. This can give you an idea of how it wrinkles and how much body it has.
Look at the surface. Does it appear smooth and evenly finished?
Consider the project. This may be the most important test of all. Ask yourself what the finished item will be expected to endure.
If you are shopping online, read the fabric description carefully. Look for fiber content, width, weight when provided, intended uses, care instructions, and information about the manufacturer or collection.
When possible, purchasing a small amount before committing to several yards can also be worthwhile when trying an unfamiliar fabric.
Price Doesn't Always Equal Quality
As the saying goes "you get what you pay for," but that is an assumption. It is tempting to assume that the most expensive cotton must automatically be the best. Please don't assume paying more is quality fabric, you could be paying for the name instead of quality fabric.
Less expensive fabric can be great quality fabric. Assuming less expensive is low quality fabric is another assumption you shouldn't make, Learn fabrics so you can be on the lookout for quality fabric no matter what the cost is.
I don't think fabric selection is quite that simple.
A premium cotton may offer qualities that justify its price, but the most important consideration is still fitness for purpose.
You could spend more money on a beautiful cotton that isn't appropriate for your project and still be disappointed.
Likewise, an inexpensive cotton may perform beautifully when used for the right project.
This is why experienced sewists often develop favorite fabrics and manufacturers. Experience teaches us which fabrics behave the way we want them to.
Think About Cost Per Wear, Not Just Cost Per Yard
There is another way to think about fabric price.
Suppose Fabric A costs less per yard, but a frequently used item made from it wears out relatively quickly.
Fabric B costs more, but the finished item remains useful much longer.
Which fabric was actually less expensive?
For something decorative that will rarely be washed, the difference may not matter very much.
For workwear, children's clothing, aprons, bags and other frequently used items, durability can make the more expensive fabric a better value over time.
My experience with welding hats certainly made me think differently about this.
Saving a little money on the fabric wasn't necessarily a savings if the finished product didn't last as long.
The Best Cotton Depends on the Project
I wouldn't tell every sewist that Kona Cotton is always better than Bella Solids, or that either one is automatically better than every other solid cotton.
Instead, I would say this:
Learn your fabrics.
Kona Cotton and Bella Solids are two solid cotton collections I have personally enjoyed sewing with and considered quality fabrics. For my welding hats, Kona Cotton proved particularly successful because durability was an important requirement.
The thinner solid cottons I used from Marshall Dry Goods didn't last as long in that particular application. However, a lighter solid could still be useful when I specifically want less weight and don't need the fabric to withstand the same demanding use.
That's the difference between simply buying fabric and **choosing fabric**.
Don't Let Beautiful Color Make the Entire Decision
Sewists love color. Sometimes a gorgeous shade is enough to make us reach immediately for the bolt.
But before putting that fabric in the shopping cart, stop and touch it.
Look at the weave.
Consider the weight.
Think about how the project will be used.
Ask how frequently it will be washed.
Think about whether it needs structure, softness, drape or durability.
Then decide.
The perfect shade of blue won't seem quite so perfect if the finished project doesn't perform the way you expected.
Quality Fabric Is Part of Quality Sewing
A beautifully sewn project is the result of many decisions.
The pattern is one.
The fit is another.
Construction and finishing techniques are certainly important.
But fabric selection belongs on that list too.
My years of making welding hats taught me that lesson in a very practical way. I could see the difference between a more substantial cotton and a thinner cotton once those fabrics were turned into products expected to withstand regular use.
That experience is one reason I pay attention to fabric quality today.
You don't necessarily need the most expensive fabric in the store.
You need the right fabric for the job.
And when you're putting your time, skill and creativity into something you intend to last, spending a little more for the appropriate quality of fabric can be money very well spent.
