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Monday, April 21, 2025

✂️ How to Confidently Adjust a Sewing Pattern for the Perfect Fit

 

A flat-style digital illustration of a seamstress adjusting a paper sewing pattern on a dress form, surrounded by sewing tools like a measuring tape, scissors, and pins. The image represents customizing a pattern for fit.
Adjust your sewing patterns confidently using simple sewing tools and techniques to create garments that fit and flatter your body shape.



A companion to "How to Choose the Best Sewing Pattern for You"


You’ve chosen the perfect sewing pattern — it’s time to make it fit you perfectly. Whether you’re sewing a blouse, a dress, or a pair of pants, learning how to make minor adjustments to your pattern will help you sew clothes that look great and feel just right. In this guide, you’ll learn how to confidently adjust a sewing pattern for the perfect fit so you can wear your handmade garments with ease, style, and pride. 

Half the job of sewing a garment is adjusting and cutting the sewing pattern. This is the first step to sewing a perfect garment. Once you have made the pattern adjustments and cut the sewing pattern, the rest of your sewing project will be a breeze. 


Why Pattern Adjustments Matter


Most commercial sewing patterns are based on standard body measurements, but real bodies are beautifully unique. Pattern adjustments allow you to:


Improve comfort and movement
Flatter your specific body shape
Fix common fit issues (like gaping necklines or tight arms)
Turn a “close fit” into a “custom fit”


Understand Your Body’s Measurements


Before you adjust a pattern, you need accurate body measurements. Key measurements to take include:


Full bust
Waist
Hips
Back waist length
Shoulder width
Upper arm circumference

Use a flexible measuring tape and write everything down. Keeping a sewing journal with measurements is important for all your sewing projects. Also, keep notes on adjusting, cutting, and sewing your pattern in case you need to make adjustments or do not want to forget fine details that made your garment perfect.

Compare your numbers to the pattern’s size chart, and note where your measurements differ in your sewing journal.


✂️Basic Tools You’ll Need


Pattern paper or tracing paper
French curve or hip curve ruler
Measuring tape
Pencil and clear ruler
Scissors
Tape or pins (Pins can be used to stay your adjustments on pattern pieces instead of tape. You can reuse your pattern pieces and make new adjustments with pins. Once you use tape on paper pattern pieces, you cannot undo the adjustments using tape.)
Optional: dress form or muslin for testing


Standard Pattern Adjustments (And When to Use Them)


➤ Full Bust Adjustment (FBA)
This is perfect if your bust measurement is larger than the pattern size. It adds fullness and prevents pulling or gaping.

➤ Small Bust Adjustment (SBA)
For those who find too much ease in the bust area, this removes excess fabric while maintaining shape.

➤ Length Adjustments
Add or subtract length at the waist, hem, sleeve, or bodice to match your torso, arms, or legs. If you are petite or tall, adjusting your sewing pattern for length is critical. 

➤ Widen or Narrow the Hip
Adjust pants, skirts, or dresses to improve the fit at the hips using the slash-and-spread method or pivoting technique.

➤ Adjusting for Swayback
If you see pooling or bunching in the lower back, removing the length of the back waistline can fix it.

➤ Full Bicep Adjustment
Adds room to sleeves for a more comfortable fit in the upper arms.


How to Make the Adjustments Step-by-Step


1. Trace your original pattern onto a separate sheet of tracing paper, pellon, or pattern paper. 

2. Mark key adjustment lines (many patterns include these).

3. Slash, spread, or overlap as needed — use rulers to keep edges smooth.

4. Redraw seam lines using a French curve.

5. Add seam allowances if any were lost during cutting.

6. Label your changes for easy reference later.


Test the Fit First


Always make a muslin or toile before cutting your final fabric:

Use inexpensive cotton or a similar-weight fabric.

Sew with long basting stitches.

Try it on and mark any new fit changes.

This step saves you time, frustration, and fabric! (Make notes in your sewing journal of your sewing process for each sewing project.)


Making pattern adjustments may seem intimidating initially, but like all sewing skills, it gets easier the more you practice. And once you learn to tailor a pattern to your shape, you’ll wonder how you ever sewed without it!


You deserve garments that fit and flatter — and adjusting your patterns gives you that power. ✨

Are you looking for sewing patterns to sew your perfect garment? Click here to visit my Bonanza Booth, where you can find an assortment of clothing and craft sewing patterns! I list new listings weekly or daily, so check often! 








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